Casa Nissa

A large local bookstore is a good place to pick up French picture books or something for the flight home.

Five floors of fashion, accessories and beauty behind red-ochre Turin-style arcades, with a kids' space on level 2 and a restaurant looking over Place Masséna.

Brunch all day: pancakes, French toast, rösti and an açaí bowl, with ube and matcha lattes.

A 30-meter wooden whale big kids climb inside, dolphins and a turtle for the younger ones, and a water mirror with 128 jets to cool off in.

A sea-view apartment with two bedrooms for up to six, in the hotel where Matisse and Chekhov stayed, near the Cours Saleya market.

Tapas and Mediterranean cooking in the old town, with a planted rooftop of 250 square meters up top.