Le Pimm's

A covered market on Cours Masséna, with stalls from market gardeners, fishmongers and cheesemongers, mountain cheeses and bunches of cut or dried flowers.

Very good gelato near the port, a reward after sightseeing or a beach walk.

A casual old town café works well for a quick breakfast or snack when nobody wants a formal restaurant.

A château on the old harbor walls holding Picasso's paintings, ceramics and drawings, with sculptures outside and a terrace over the sea.

Sandy beach reached from the port, sheltered from wind and swell, with the old ramparts shading it once the sun drops behind the roofs.

Sixteenth-century fort on the Saint-Roch peninsula above the harbor, one of the first bastioned forts in France.