Nationalmuseum

Every floor has its own living room, the lobby hangs documentary photography shows, and a jazz band plays at Saturday brunch.

Open since 1874 on the water facing the Royal Palace and the old town, with a classic Swedish smörgåsbord at the Veranda looking across to the palace.

Art, history and living traditions from Japan, China and Korea, with free entry for anyone under 19.

Cinnamon buns and cardamom buns are the obvious order, and the casual bakery setup keeps fika quick and painless.

Free for kids up to 18, with royal armor, costumes and carriages, a Children's Armoury under a starry ceiling and a castle mouse activity for ages 4 to 8.

An amphibious bus on a one-hour tour by land and water, with a live guide in English and Swedish, for ages 3 and up.